California BBQ Joint Trucks Meat After Zoning Crackdown

A barbecue restaurant in Sebastopol, California, celebrated by celebrity chef Guy Fieri, has resorted to trucking its meats into town after a local zoning dispute forced its commercial smokers outside city limits. A&M BBQ's owners, Kristopher Austin and Finn Liss, are now transporting the freshly smoked food back to their restaurant, a costly workaround Austin stated is unsustainable.

The situation escalated on May 28 when the restaurant received a notice to cease using its outdoor commercial smokers due to zoning violations. The notice gave them 10 days to comply.

Rather than close, Austin and Liss relocated the smoking equipment beyond Sebastopol's boundaries. This operational shift has impacted the business's logistics and expenses.

The dispute is particularly difficult for A&M BBQ, which has gained recognition for its food. Fieri notably praised the restaurant's confit smoked oxtail at a previous event, highlighting its texture.

Austin and Liss, who opened the restaurant in June 2024, are actively seeking a permanent solution that allows for expansion while adhering to city regulations. They acknowledged in a May Instagram post that finding a suitable location for their operation has been a year-long search.

Relocating a commercial smoking operation involves complex challenges, including permitting, infrastructure, and financing, making immediate moves difficult. The owners expressed their commitment to finding a "responsible path forward."

City officials maintain that the smokers do not comply with zoning regulations at the restaurant's Main Street location. City Manager Mary Gourley confirmed the zoning restriction to SFGATE, noting that officials had requested the removal of one smoker as early as March.

Following a May 5 City Council meeting, where residents voiced concerns about smoke, air quality, and traffic attributed to the larger commercial smokers acquired by A&M BBQ last fall, additional enforcement actions were taken. Residents also objected to the height of the smokers' stacks.

While former Mayor Larry Robinson suggested high-tech filtration systems, Austin expressed reservations about the associated costs.

The restaurant has garnered community support amid the ongoing dispute. Numerous attendees at a recent City Council meeting, including the president of the NAACP's Santa Rosa-Sonoma County branch, have rallied behind Austin, citing concerns about fairness and transparency in the city's handling of the case.