Butter, once a simple ingredient, is now celebrated for its versatility and flavor. Chefs, cheesemongers, and cookbook authors agree that the quality of butter hinges on butterfat content and the process of culturing cream, rather than branding.

The Nuance of Cultured Butter

Most butter produced in America is made from sweet cream, resulting in a mild and clean taste. Cultured butter, however, undergoes fermentation with lactic acid bacteria before churning. This process yields a richer texture and a tangier, more complex flavor profile, akin to the difference between milk and crème fraîche.

"Cultured butter has a much more pronounced buttery flavor than sweet cream butter," said John Montez, a certified cheese professional and training manager at Murray’s Cheese. "It has a slight tang... and when butter is the star of the show [like spread on a crusty baguette], for me it has to be cultured." David Joachim, author of numerous cookbooks, concurs, comparing the fermentation to yogurt for butter, which produces more complex and interesting flavor compounds. European butters often have a higher butterfat content, typically between 82% and 85%, compared to the standard 80% found in most American butters.

Understanding Butterfat

Butterfat is the essential component that provides butter with its richness and spreadability. A higher butterfat content means less water, which is crucial for applications like baking flaky pastries, creating smooth sauces, and achieving better browning. "Higher-fat butters are great for baking because you get better aeration when creaming," Joachim explained. "They’re richer, softer and more flavorful."

While butterfat content isn't always clearly labeled, terms like "European-style" or "cultured" often indicate a higher fat percentage. To confirm, consumers can check the nutrition panel: butter with 11 or 12 grams of fat per 14-gram tablespoon typically has a butterfat content of 82%–86%, while butter with around 10 grams of fat is closer to the standard 80%.

Expert-Recommended Butters

When it comes to top-tier butter brands, Montez recommends Kerrygold for its grass-fed Irish butter and Vermont Creamery for its cultured butter. Sheana Davis, a culinary educator and author, favors Clover and Straus Family Creamery, and also notes Mary’s cultured butter. Joachim adds Vital Farms to the list, citing its 83% butterfat content and widespread availability.

Joachim also points to the growing popularity of flavored and compound butters, such as truffle, lemon, or herb varieties, which are now readily available in grocery stores. Compound butter, made by mixing softened butter with flavorings, offers a simple way to enhance dishes.

Everyday Butter and Label Reading

For general cooking and baking where butter's flavor isn't the primary focus, standard supermarket or private label butters are perfectly adequate, according to Joachim. However, he advises opting for higher-quality butter when it plays a starring role.

Davis cautions against tub-style or whipped butters for baking due to their potential for high air or water content, which can disrupt recipes. She also suggests checking expiration dates, as butter can freeze well but readily absorbs odors, necessitating airtight storage.

Key terms to understand on butter labels include:

  • Cultured: Indicates the cream was fermented, enhancing flavor.
  • Grass-fed: Suggests richer color and nutrient content.
  • European-style: Typically means cultured and higher in butterfat.
  • Salted vs. Unsalted: Unsalted is preferred by chefs for precise salt control in baking, while salted is suitable for spreading and finishing.

Montez highlights "cultured" and "grass-fed" as strong indicators of quality.

Butter's Nutritional Standing

Contrary to past beliefs, butter, particularly grass-fed varieties, is recognized as a source of healthy fats. "Fat gives food flavor," Joachim states, emphasizing that the notion of "fat is evil" is outdated. Both he and Davis advocate for butter as a whole food that can be enjoyed in moderation. Davis suggests a simple yet luxurious preparation: a crusty baguette with a generous spread of fresh cultured butter, perhaps accompanied by radishes.