Graciela, a new Argentine steakhouse from acclaimed chef Pablo Rivero, has rapidly become a sought-after dining destination in New York City's Greenwich Village. Despite its recent opening, the restaurant, located at 81 Greenwich Ave., is experiencing consistent patronage, even on typically slow nights.
The restaurant is the first U.S. establishment for Rivero, who also owns the renowned, Michelin-starred Don Julio in Buenos Aires. He partnered with New York brothers Adam and Alex Saper to open Graciela, aiming to bring an authentic Argentine live-fire grilling experience to the city.
Live-Fire Cooking
At the heart of Graciela's appeal are its custom-built grills: an eight-foot Argentine parilla and a Spanish Josper oven, which together provide ten feet of cooking surface. These are fueled by hardwood charcoal from the Quebracho tree, imparting a subtle char and distinct smoky flavor to the meats. Rivero brought a team of six from Buenos Aires to operate the grills, focusing on simple preparation with sea salt as the primary seasoning. This method highlights the natural quality of the beef, eschewing heavy sauces and marinades.
The menu features several cuts of beef, including entrana (skirt steak) and the Ojo-de-Bife, a center-cut ribeye. The 16-ounce Argentine ribeye is particularly praised for its rich marbling and tender texture, offering a flavor comparable to more expensive Wagyu. While most cuts are not dry-aged, the restaurant also offers a 30-ounce bone-in ribeye that undergoes a 30-day aging process.
Menu Highlights
Beyond steak, Graciela offers a selection of appetizers and other dishes. Standouts include empanadas with fillings like ossobuco and corn and cheese, as well as a carpaccio de tomate. A provolone cheese and chickpea tart, fiana, is noted for its vivid paprika tint, and a spiral pork sausage is seasoned with oregano, coriander, and Argentine chili. Sides such as papas fritas are served with a house-made ketchup.
Desserts include popular ice cream options, such as dulce de leche and a dense chocolate flavor. The restaurant's design combines rustic Argentine elements with historic Greenwich Village aesthetics, featuring wood-beam ceilings, hand-plastered walls, and stone and marble surfaces, all warmly lit. The lively dining room seats 120 patrons, with additional seating at the bar.
Graciela joins a growing number of international steakhouses in New York, including those with Mexican, French, Turkish, Japanese, and Brazilian influences, but distinguishes itself with its pure Argentine charcoal-grilling approach.