A Toast to History: Wine's Enduring Role Through the Ages

Wine has been an integral part of human civilization since its earliest days, a fact explored in Kathleen Burk's new book that traces the beverage's historical journey. The practice of winemaking dates back approximately 8,000 years, with the earliest evidence found in present-day Georgia.

The vine's longevity is remarkable, with the oldest living vine in Maribor, Slovenia, dating back 400 years and still producing around 30 bottles of its red zametovka grapes annually. This ancient vine even has its own anthem.

Throughout history, wine has been associated with the elite and with significant decisions. In 5th century BC Persia, each royal family member received a daily ration of five liters of wine. Leaders would debate matters both while intoxicated and sober, acting on decisions only if they remained consistent across both states. This practice has been seen as an early adoption of the principle of 'in vino veritas,' or 'in wine, there is truth.' George Washington, the first U.S. President, was known to drink a pint of madeira, a fortified wine, with his dinner daily. In contrast, Donald Trump is noted as being teetotal.

Religion has also long intertwined with wine. Historical accounts from 18th century Germany depict monks at Johannisberg priory prioritizing wine over books, humorously demonstrated by their readiness to produce corkscrews when asked. The first patent for a corkscrew in 1795 was filed by Reverend Samuel Henshall of Oxford.

Even warfare has not deterred wine consumption. During World War I, General Joseph Joffre, commander-in-chief of French forces on the Western Front, deemed a quarter-liter of wine the minimum daily ration for soldiers, a figure that increased to three-quarters of a liter by 1918. In 1982, grape pickers continued their work in vineyards between Israeli and Syrian tanks during a period of conflict.

Attempts to ban alcohol have also marked history. In the 1880s, the New Zealand Alliance for the Suppression and Abolition of the Liquor Trade led to a law enforcing bar closures at 6 p.m., resulting in the 'six o'clock swill,' a period where patrons consumed as much as possible before closing. It wasn't until 1967 that licensed hours were extended.

America's Prohibition era, from 1920 to 1933, remains a significant experiment in alcohol prohibition. During this time, the Library of Congress categorized books on wine under 'indecent books.' A notable incident involved federal agents destroying 140,000 gallons of wine from a California farm, which subsequently formed a lake that local community members drank from. The exemption for medicinal purposes led some companies, like Paul Masson, to rebrand their sparkling wine as 'Medicinal Champagne.'

Burk's research highlights the vast scope of wine's influence, detailing how grape varieties and production methods spread across territories with different empires. Following Romania's abandonment of communism in 1989, winemakers offering advice found it challenging to recruit motivated workers, as under the previous regime, mere attendance was valued over actual productivity.

In recent decades, wine consumption has declined in major European countries. Notably, red wine consumption in France has fallen by 90 percent since the 1970s. The book concludes by referencing the Hittite king Suppiluliuma, who died in 1322 BC, whose tomb was inscribed with the advice: 'eat, drink and be merry.'