For women over 40 seeking a more youthful complexion, A-list aesthetician Keren Bartov suggests a shift away from injectables like Botox towards a simplified, consistent skincare routine focused on skin health. Bartov, known in Hollywood as a 'skin whisperer' who has worked with clients such as Beyonce, Kim Kardashian, Sienna Miller, and Julia Roberts, emphasizes that healthy, resilient skin is key to a radiant appearance.
Bartov, who has two skin clinics and has collaborated with dermatologists and laboratories to develop her own products, advises against overly complicated skincare regimens. "Your skin changes with age, so your skincare routine should change too," she stated. She recommends limiting daily routines to a maximum of four to six essential products: a gentle cleanser, a quality moisturizer, a broad-spectrum sunscreen, and a targeted serum, such as one with vitamin C for brightness or hyaluronic acid for hydration.
She also cautions against the common practice of rushing to injectables after 40. "I like expression lines. To me, they’re part of who we are," Bartov said, noting that firm, even-toned, and radiant skin can make these lines appear less prominent. Her treatments focus on stimulating circulation, improving lymphatic drainage and oxygenation, boosting collagen, and restoring hydration, all aimed at enhancing the skin's natural function.
Mastering Skincare Application
Proper application order is crucial for maximizing product efficacy, according to Bartov. She advises applying skincare products from the thinnest to the thickest consistency, allowing each layer to absorb fully before applying the next. The general sequence is cleanser, toner, serum, eye cream (if used), moisturizer, and finally, SPF. A minimum of 30 seconds to several minutes should be allowed between applications.
The Non-Negotiable Step: SPF
Bartov stresses that daily application of broad-spectrum SPF 30 or higher is non-negotiable, regardless of age or weather. She notes that the brand is less important than consistent daily use, recommending options like La Roche-Posay Anthelios SPF50+ or Avene Very High Protection SPF50+ for affordability. Application should extend to all exposed areas, including the neck, ears, and hands.
Cleansing and Product Investment
Cleansing twice daily is presented as a foundational step. Bartov recommends a pH-balanced cleanser suitable for one's skin type, emphasizing the importance of not stripping the skin's natural barrier. Evening cleansing is vital for removing makeup and SPF. For products that remain on the skin, such as serums, moisturizers, and sunscreens, Bartov suggests investing in quality formulations that offer long-term benefits. She also highlights the importance of hand cream and lip balm for overall skin maintenance.
Intelligent Formulations Over 'Hero Ingredients'
Bartov advocates for formulations where ingredients work synergistically rather than focusing on single "hero ingredients." She points to her own Booster Peel & Glow Serum as an example of a precise combination of gentle acids and other active ingredients designed to exfoliate, smooth, and brighten without irritation. She notes the importance of ingredients like vitamin C for antioxidant protection, peptides to signal collagen and elastin production, and ceramides to strengthen the skin barrier.
Prioritizing the Skin Barrier
Restoring and maintaining a strong skin barrier is Bartov's primary concern when treating clients. Signs of a damaged barrier include persistent dryness, reactions to previously tolerated products, and tightness. Environmental factors, over-cleansing, and excessive exfoliation can compromise this barrier. Bartov suggests cooling compresses for irritation and using calming concealers if needed, emphasizing consistency and avoiding overwhelming the skin with unnecessary ingredients.
Bartov also advises against building skincare routines based on social media trends or algorithms, as these recommendations may not be suitable for individual skin needs and can lead to irritation or damage. "Most women don’t need stronger skincare, they need smarter skincare," she concluded.