Doctor Explains Non-Surgical Solutions for Tired-Looking Eyes

The delicate skin under the eyes, which is thinner and contains less collagen than the rest of the face, often shows signs of aging and can contribute to a tired appearance. Aesthetic doctor Dr. Wassim Taktouk of London's Taktouk Clinic explains that factors like the heatwave and high pollen counts can exacerbate issues such as puffiness and dark circles.

The thinness of the under-eye skin means that blood vessels and muscles beneath the surface can be more visible, leading to dark circles that may appear purple, blue, or red. Additionally, the lymphatic system in this area has very fine vessels, making it prone to fluid retention and puffiness.

Skincare Approaches

Retinoids are considered the gold standard for anti-aging skincare and can be applied around the eyes, provided they do not cause irritation. Dedicated retinoid eye creams are available for those who find standard facial retinoids too harsh. Dr. Taktouk also emphasizes the importance of sun protection, as UV exposure significantly contributes to skin aging. While a regular SPF can be used, specific formulations designed for delicate eye areas exist to minimize irritation. Some mineral-based sunscreens, while gentle, can leave a white or grayish cast on darker skin tones.

IMAGE1: The skin under the eyes is very different from the skin on the rest of the face – it is thinner and has less collagen – which is why our eyes often look so tired, even after a good night’s sleep

Medical and Cosmetic Treatments

For those considering non-surgical interventions, options include Botox and hyaluronic acid fillers. Botox can provide smoothness in small doses, but it may not be suitable for individuals with significant skin laxity, as it can potentially lead to sagging. Furthermore, paralyzing the muscles around the eyes with Botox can impede fluid drainage, potentially increasing puffiness.

Hyaluronic acid fillers are typically not injected directly under the eye to avoid lumpiness due to movement. Instead, they are often placed beneath the muscle on the cheekbone to lift the under-eye area. Injectable skin boosters, such as Jalupro and NCTF, which combine hyaluronic acid, amino acids, and minerals, can stimulate collagen production and improve skin quality. However, injecting into the thin under-eye area carries a risk of bruising.

IMAGE2: While retinoids are the gold standard for anti-ageing, SPF, like this one sold at Boots, is also helpful for protecting skin and reducing irritation around the eyes

CO2 laser treatment is another option that promotes collagen production and skin tightening. However, it requires a downtime of a couple of weeks, and for some skin types, redness can persist for up to six months. This prolonged healing period highlights the sensitivity of eyelid skin, particularly in older patients.

Dr. Taktouk notes that treating the under-eye area presents unique challenges, but with the guidance of a skilled aesthetic doctor or consistent skincare, it is possible to reduce the appearance of tired eyes.