Azelaic acid, a compound naturally found in grains like wheat, rye, and barley, is experiencing a significant surge in popularity within the beauty industry. Driven by social media platforms like TikTok and Instagram, searches for the ingredient have increased by 83% in the past year, positioning it as one of the fastest-growing skincare searches. Experts attribute this renewed interest to content creators showcasing impressive results, leading to more accessible and user-friendly formulations from brands.
Skincare Benefits and Applications
Despite its name, azelaic acid functions differently from common exfoliating acids like AHAs and BHAs. Instead of breaking down dead skin cells, it acts as an anti-keratinizing agent, normalizing the abnormal buildup of keratinized dead skin cells. This property makes it effective in improving the appearance of uneven skin tone and texture, while also soothing blemish-prone skin and reducing redness associated with breakouts. Its versatility allows it to target concerns ranging from blemishes and uneven texture to redness and pigmentation.
Rita Silva, Senior Manager of Scientific Communications at The Ordinary, noted that while many cosmetic-grade versions are produced through biofermentation, the ingredient's core benefits remain consistent. Unlike some harsher active ingredients, certain formulations of azelaic acid are also considered suitable for sensitive and rosacea-prone skin. The Ordinary's 10% Azelaic Acid Suspension, for example, is cited as being appropriate for blemish-prone, rosacea-prone, and sensitive skin types, although individual results may vary.
While azelaic acid is not a direct substitute for retinoids in addressing fine lines and wrinkles, it offers a strong alternative for those seeking a smoother, clearer, and more even complexion. Clinical testing by The Ordinary found its 10% formula began clearing skin within a week, with improvements in tone and texture observed after four weeks.
Layering and Usage Recommendations
Experts advise a cautious approach when integrating azelaic acid into a skincare routine. While some formulations may be suitable for daily use, either morning or evening, it is recommended to start with application once or twice a week and gradually increase frequency as skin tolerance develops. Patch testing is also advised when introducing any new active ingredient.
For optimal results and to minimize irritation, azelaic acid can be layered with ingredients like alpha arbutin for uneven tone, hyaluronic acid and ceramides for hydration, and niacinamide and vitamin C for brightening. However, it is generally not recommended to combine azelaic acid with other exfoliating acids, such as glycolic or salicylic acid, or with retinoids in the same routine. Unlike some other skincare actives, purging is not commonly associated with azelaic acid, according to The Ordinary's observations, though irritation and dryness can occur if too much is applied or if the skin is not accustomed to it.
Expansion into Haircare
The efficacy of azelaic acid is now extending beyond skincare. Redken has launched a haircare system incorporating azelaic acid, caffeine, and prebiotics. This range focuses on scalp health for fine and thinning hair, aiming to hydrate the scalp, reduce breakage, and enhance the appearance of hair thickness and fullness, rather than promoting new hair growth.
Despite its long-standing presence in dermatology, the current social media-driven spotlight on azelaic acid highlights its proven benefits. For individuals looking to improve skin clarity, reduce redness, achieve smoother texture, and attain a more even complexion, azelaic acid is presented as a worthwhile addition to a beauty regimen.