Unhomogenised milk is experiencing a surge in popularity, with sales at Waitrose increasing by 34 percent in the past year. This trend is largely fueled by consumers seeking "whole foods" and actively avoiding ultra-processed foods (UPFs).
Homogenisation is a mechanical process that breaks down fat globules in milk under high pressure, distributing them evenly to prevent separation and ensure a consistent texture. This results in the cream naturally rising to the top in unhomogenised milk, contributing to a creamier taste and appearance. While this distinction is noticeable in texture, registered nutritionist Rob Hobson states that the nutritional profiles of homogenised and unhomogenised whole milk are virtually identical. Both provide similar amounts of essential nutrients like protein, calcium, iodine, and vitamin B12.
"The main difference is texture and appearance rather than nutritional value," Hobson explained. He added that while unhomogenised whole milk generally contains more fat and calories than skimmed or semi-skimmed options, this reflects its fat content, not the absence of homogenisation.
The desire for "brilliant basics" and a simpler approach to diets is driving this demand, according to Dan Robinson, Food Processing Manager at Waitrose's dairy farm. However, Hobson suggests this consumer behavior may stem from a misunderstanding, where less processing is automatically equated with being healthier.
"People often view unhomogenised milk as the opposite of a highly processed food, but homogenisation is simply a mechanical process that changes the size of fat globules. It doesn't fundamentally alter the nutritional profile of the milk," he stated. This process is distinct from pasteurisation, which involves heating milk to kill harmful bacteria.
Claims that unhomogenised milk offers significant benefits to the gut microbiome are also met with skepticism by experts. "There is very little evidence that unhomogenised milk offers meaningful gut health benefits compared with homogenised milk," said Hobson. While some proponents suggest it's easier to digest due to the fat globules remaining in their natural form, research has not consistently supported these claims, with some studies indicating that homogenised milk may be digested equally well, or even more efficiently.
Despite the premium price often associated with unhomogenised milk—four pints of Waitrose's Duchy Organic Unhomogenised Whole Milk cost £2.65 compared to £1.75 for their Essential British Free Range Semi-Skimmed Milk—experts do not believe it warrants the extra cost on health grounds alone.
This increased interest in unhomogenised milk occurs against a backdrop of declining overall milk consumption in Britain. Currently, nearly one in ten glasses of milk consumed are plant-based alternatives, a significant jump from one in a hundred just a decade ago. For comparison, Britons consumed an average of five pints of milk per week in 1974, more than double the current average intake of around two pints.