Acids have become a dominant ingredient in skincare, offering a range of benefits from smoothing fine lines and clearing pores to promoting a more radiant complexion. Aesthetic doctor Dr. David Jack notes that while often linked to younger, acne-prone skin, exfoliating acids are equally effective for mature skin.
As individuals age, the natural shedding of dead skin cells slows, leading to a duller surface. Acids work by breaking the bonds between these accumulated cells, revealing a smoother, more light-reflective complexion. This process also enhances the penetration of other active ingredients in skincare products.
Skincare acids are typically categorized into alpha-hydroxy acids (AHAs) and beta-hydroxy acids (BHAs). Both exfoliate the skin chemically, avoiding the micro-tears that can result from physical scrubs. AHAs are water-soluble and work on the skin's surface, making them suitable for drier or mature skin types. BHAs, on the other hand, are oil-soluble, allowing them to penetrate pores and address congestion.
Poly-hydroxy acids (PHAs) offer similar exfoliation to AHAs but are generally better tolerated by sensitive skin. It is important to note that hyaluronic acid, despite its name, is a hydrating ingredient and not an exfoliant.
For optimal results, acids should be applied topically to clean, dry skin and allowed time to absorb. They should not be included in rinse-off products like face washes, as the contact time is insufficient. After application, users can follow with a serum or proceed directly to moisturizer or SPF.
It is crucial to avoid using exfoliating acids concurrently with other potent active ingredients such as retinol or vitamin C, as this can lead to irritation. Additionally, acids increase sun sensitivity, making daily SPF use imperative.
Individuals with sensitive skin may wish to perform a patch test on an inconspicuous area, such as the crook of the elbow or behind the ear, before applying to the face. Starting with one application per week is recommended to gauge tolerance.
Using an acid treatment at night, followed by a soothing night cream, can result in smoother, softer, and more radiant skin by morning. This approach also allows for the morning use of vitamin C products and SPF without concerns about active ingredient interaction.
Care should be taken to avoid the delicate eye area, as it may not tolerate acids well.
Product recommendations for different skin concerns:
For aging skin, The Ordinary Glycolic Acid 7% Exfoliating Toner offers a potent yet affordable option. This AHA toner can help reduce the appearance of fine lines with consistent use.
For managing clogged pores and blemishes, Medicube Zero Pore Pad 2.0 utilizes a combination of AHAs and BHAs. These pre-soaked pads also contain hydrating ingredients like panthenol and allantoin to soothe the skin.
Murad Replenishing Multi-Acid Peel is recommended for dry skin. This dual-phase treatment contains both AHAs and BHAs within a hydrating oil base. It also includes tranexamic acid, which helps to block pigmentation, benefiting those with age spots.
Takami Daily Skin Renewing Soft Peel is formulated for sensitive skin, combining glycolic acid with mild fruit enzymes to gently exfoliate without disrupting the skin barrier. The brand's founder, Dr. Hiroshi Takami, has extensive dermatological experience.
For rough skin texture on the limbs, Ameliorate Transforming Body Cream uses AHAs to smooth skin, effectively addressing conditions like keratosis pilaris. It is advised to use this product at night and avoid application on freshly shaved skin, as it may sting.
Skin Rocks The Strong Acid, created by beauty influencer Caroline Hirons, is designed for experienced users seeking a more intensive exfoliation. This toner combines AHAs, BHAs, and PHAs for resurfacing, along with niacinamide to help reduce redness.