A growing number of dermatologists are advocating for mineral sunscreens over their chemical counterparts, citing increased safety and effectiveness despite their less cosmetically elegant appearance. This shift in recommendation coincides with rising skin cancer rates and a surge in online discussions about "non-toxic" skincare.
Mineral sunscreens, which contain physical blockers like zinc oxide and titanium dioxide, work by reflecting UV rays away from the skin. Unlike chemical sunscreens, these ingredients remain on the skin's surface and do not enter the bloodstream. This barrier-like action provides immediate protection upon application.
"It's true that mineral sunscreens are better for you," stated Dr. Christopher Rowland Payne, a consultant dermatologist at The London Clinic. "People have just been put off by the fact that it turns your whole face white. But it is the more effective option."
Chemical sunscreens, which have been available since the 1960s and 1970s, utilize ingredients such as oxybenzone, avobenzone, and octocrylene. These ingredients absorb UV radiation and convert it into heat, which is then released from the skin. They can be rubbed into the skin without leaving a visible residue, making them a popular choice.
However, concerns have emerged regarding chemical sunscreens. Social media influencers and some patients report that these products can trigger skin problems, acne, and dermatitis. Research has also indicated that chemicals from sunscreen can be absorbed into the bloodstream. A 2020 U.S. study found sunscreen chemicals detectable in participants' blood for up to seven days after application ceased. Further research from Switzerland in 2008 detected oxybenzone and other sunscreen chemicals in a significant portion of breast milk samples.
While the exact health risks associated with these absorbed chemicals are still under investigation, health officials advise against using chemical sunscreens on infants due to their smaller body mass. "Babies are small enough for these chemicals to have an impact on their bodies," Dr. Rowland Payne explained. "There aren't the same worries for adults though."
The visible "white cast" left by mineral sunscreens, a result of the physical barrier they create, has historically limited their appeal. However, their perceived safety and efficacy are driving their increasing popularity, particularly among younger consumers seeking natural alternatives. Videos about mineral sunscreen have garnered over 146 million views on TikTok.
Dr. Rowland Payne noted, "It's not surprising that young people who are looking for a more natural and healthy option are turning to mineral sunscreen." He personally favors mineral options, despite their aesthetic drawbacks.
For optimal sun protection, experts recommend mineral sunscreens containing zinc oxide, which offers superior protection compared to titanium dioxide, though a combination of both is ideal. It is also important to note that some products labeled as mineral sunscreens may contain chemical ingredients, referred to as hybrids.
Regardless of the type, both mineral and chemical sunscreens require reapplication approximately every 90 minutes, or more frequently if swimming. Experts emphasize that the most effective sun protection strategies include seeking shade and wearing protective clothing such as hats and long sleeves, particularly during peak sun hours. The UK is currently facing a skin cancer crisis, with melanoma cases at an all-time high and non-melanoma cases having more than doubled since the 1990s. Specialists predict that melanoma cases could rise to 26,500 annually by 2040 due to increasingly hot summers.