Experts Weigh In on Viral Chinese Plant Extract Claimed to Combat 'Ozempic Face'

A cosmetic ingredient derived from a Chinese plant extract, Volufiline, is gaining traction on TikTok as a potential solution for "Ozempic face"—the gaunt appearance some users experience from rapid weight loss associated with popular diabetes and weight loss drugs like Ozempic, Wegovy, and Mounjaro. However, dermatologists express skepticism about its efficacy and potential risks.

'Ozempic face' is characterized by hollow cheeks, sagging skin, and sunken eyes, attributed to the significant weight loss these medications can facilitate. A study in the Journal of Clinical Medicine noted that rapid weight loss, sometimes up to a fifth of body weight in just over a year, can lead to these aesthetic changes.

Volufiline, a cream and serum containing an extract from the root of Anemarrhena asphodeloides, is being touted on social media as a way to restore facial fullness. The extract contains sarsasapogenin, which is believed to work by stimulating existing fat cells under the skin to store more fat, thereby increasing volume and creating a plumper appearance. Some TikTok users share before-and-after videos, likening the product to "filler in a bottle."

One study, cited by the manufacturer Croda, involved 28 women applying Volufiline to one breast for nearly two months. Researchers reported an average 2.2% increase in volume in the treated breast compared to the untreated side. Croda's chief executive, Steve Foots, noted that the growing interest in Volufiline, fueled by the rise of weight loss drugs, has created a significant commercial opportunity, with sales reportedly increasing by 270% in the first half of the year.

Despite the online enthusiasm, medical experts are not convinced. Dr. Christopher Rowland Payne, a consultant dermatologist at The London Clinic, questions whether a topical product can penetrate the skin deeply enough to affect facial fat cells. He suggests that any perceived improvement might be due to increased skin hydration rather than actual fat cell volumization, an effect he believes would be temporary.

Other experts caution against embracing viral trends without scientific backing. "You have to take everything that goes viral with a pinch of salt," said Dr. Sweta Rai, a consultant dermatologist at King's College Hospital. "It's being marketed as an alternative to something that's injected into your skin for volumisation, and medically, I don't know how that would be possible."

Several specialists emphasized the need for more research to validate Volufiline's effectiveness for facial application. They advise individuals experiencing facial hollowness due to weight loss medications to first consult a medical professional. Options such as adjusting medication dosage, lipofilling (transferring fat from other body areas to the face), or traditional filler injections are recommended medical approaches. The manufacturer, Croda, stated that they "work closely with the world's leading beauty brands to bring new solutions to the market with science-led ingredients."