Dermatologists are cautioning that while self-tanners offer a sunless way to achieve a tanned appearance, improper use can lead to skin aging and other issues. The primary concern arises when skin treated with self-tanner is subsequently exposed to sunlight.
Dihydroxyacetone (DHA), the active ingredient in most self-tanners, reacts with amino acids in the skin's outer layer to create a temporary bronzed color. However, according to dermatologist Dr. Dawn Queen, when this DHA-treated skin is exposed to UV rays, it can lead to the formation of free radicals. Over time, repeated exposure to these free radicals may contribute to oxidative stress and accelerate skin aging.
"Self-tanners shouldn't be mistaken for sun protection," Dr. Queen stated. Applying self-tanner and then immediately heading into the sun is not beneficial for the skin.
While some manufacturers promote naturally-derived DHA as safer, Dr. Queen asserts there is no significant difference, and the distinction is largely a marketing tactic. She emphasizes that self-tanners are still considerably safer than direct sun or tanning bed use.
To mitigate these risks, Dr. Queen recommends applying self-tanners in the evening to avoid immediate sun exposure. Crucially, she stresses the continued necessity of sunscreen, recommending a broad-spectrum product with an SPF of 15 or higher, reapplied at least every two hours when outdoors. Many dermatologists suggest an SPF of 30 or 50 for greater protection.
"A sunless tan doesn't provide UV protection, so daily sunscreen is still essential," Dr. Queen noted. For adequate coverage, adults typically need about an ounce of sunscreen, equivalent to a shot glass full. Additional sun protection measures include wearing protective clothing, using UV-blocking umbrellas, and avoiding direct sunlight during peak hours, generally between 10 a.m. and 2 p.m.
Beyond the interaction with UV rays, certain ingredients in self-tanners can cause skin irritation. These may include strong fragrances, essential oils, specific preservatives like MI, MCI, and formaldehyde-releasing agents, temporary dyes, and alcohols. Individuals with sensitive skin, eczema, or a history of contact dermatitis may be more susceptible to adverse reactions and are advised to perform a patch test before widespread application.
Despite these potential issues, Dr. Queen maintains that self-tanners are a generally safe option when used correctly and are preferable to UV tanning. She advises avoiding inhalation of spray products and applying them at night. If undergoing a skin examination or pigmentation evaluation, it is advisable to avoid applying self-tanner beforehand, as it can sometimes obscure subtle pigment changes.