Stella McCartney Declares War on Fishing Industry at Paris Fashion Week
The designer used her 25th-anniversary show to advocate for ocean conservation, showcasing a collection made from sustainable materials.
PARIS (AP) — Stella McCartney declared war on the fishing industry at Paris Fashion Week on Wednesday, marking 25 years of a fashion label that has never used leather, fur, or feathers. The show, held in the rain-soaked gardens of the British ambassador's residence, featured Jennifer Lopez and Juliette Binoche in the front row, with models walking under umbrellas.
McCartney challenged the way the industry refers to marine life, questioning the distinction between appreciating "sea life" and consuming "seafood." "It's war. We're at war with the oceans," she stated backstage, highlighting the bycatch of dolphins and octopuses that occurs alongside the fishing for a single piece of fish.
The collection itself offered a more gentle approach to the theme. Models walked to PJ Harvey's "Down by the Water," dressed in a palette of seafoam, sage, coral, blush, and chocolate. Tailoring featured loosened silhouettes, drawstrings on oversized blazers, and rounded peplums. Sheer layers revealed bandeaus and shorts, aligning with the season's underwear-as-outerwear trend. Sportswear elements included second-skin leggings and technical jackets, with airbrushed dolphins adorning T-shirts.
Models Karlie Kloss and Miranda Kerr showcased pieces reflecting the oceanic theme, with Kloss in a minidress featuring waves and Kerr in a seafoam gown. Evening wear included gowns with draped torsos and ruffled hems resembling surf.
McCartney emphasized the wearability of her designs, stating, "It's really, really important to want to wear the clothes." The ready-to-wear collection was promoted as 100% responsible, utilizing recycled cotton denim, organic cotton and silk, and a black pigment derived from algae. The brand also employs certified traceable wool and, since 2026, will use Brewed Protein, a wool alternative fermented by the Japanese biotech firm Spiber.
Earlier this month, McCartney co-founded The Climate Pledge Fashion Coalition with Amazon and the nonprofit Canopy. This initiative aims to aggregate orders from over 60 companies to facilitate the scaling of sustainable materials. Last year, McCartney bought back LVMH’s minority stake in her label but continues to advise its chief, Bernard Arnault, on sustainability matters.
McCartney concluded the show by taking her bow in jeans, a white T-shirt, and a blazer, giving a thumbs up. When asked about the clothes after the show, she noted that after 25 years, they remain her most potent argument.