Cloth Cornhill: London's Historic Chophouse Reimagined

Cloth Cornhill, located on the site of the former Simpson's Tavern, offers a dining experience that artfully merges its historic past with contemporary refinements. The establishment, once dubbed the 'oldest chophouse in London,' evokes an era when figures like Charles Dickens frequented its rooms.

The interior retains many of its original features, including high-backed booths, large bow windows, and classic tiles. The ambiance is further defined by its clientele, a mix of older patrons in traditional attire and younger diners in modern casual wear. The menu initially suggests a focus on hearty, traditional fare such as sausages, steak, and Barnsley chops.

However, closer inspection reveals subtle yet significant updates. The décor, featuring muted green walls, polished mahogany, and newly upholstered seating, has been meticulously renovated to enhance its original character. This conscientious renovation ensures that the restaurant feels both familiar and improved.

Solo dishes are currently a highlight, with Cloth Cornhill's own 'The Sausage'—a homemade, pork-rich, and well-spiced offering—receiving praise. The crab cocktail is noted for its abundance of fresh brown and white meat, complemented by apple and pickled celeriac. A standout dish is the smoked haddock, mussel, and leek gratin, described as a comforting and rich cream-based dish.

Makeshift dishes also make an appearance on the menu, including Provençal panisse, which are light and crisp when fried, topped with sardine and onion. Even the vegetarian options are presented as substantial competitors to traditional meat dishes, such as a large gnocchi filled with Taleggio cheese and girolle mushrooms, which is noted as being on par with a Suffolk pork chop.

Cloth Cornhill is characterized by its ability to feel both old-fashioned and modern, offering a nuanced dining experience. The review concludes that the restaurant represents a "faded London classic, thrillingly reinvented."

The establishment is located at 38½ Cornhill, London EC3, with a website at clothrestaurants.com. The estimated cost per head is around £50.