London's Mayfair district has welcomed Chez Rose, a new French bistro that food critic Tom Parker Bowles describes as "deceptively simple, but pretty much perfect." The restaurant, located on the site of Atherton's former Little Social, aims to evoke the spirit of traditional Parisian bistros.
Chez Rose boasts classic French bistro elements such as mosaic flooring, leather banquettes, daily specials blackboards, aged mirrors, and crisp white linen. The atmosphere is described as lively and convivial. However, unlike some older establishments, the service is noted for being exceptionally smooth and welcoming.
Spencer Metzger, former head chef at The Ritz, and restaurateur Jason Atherton are the driving forces behind Chez Rose. Metzger's grandmother, after whom the restaurant is named, has also inspired the venture. Metzger brings his culinary expertise, honed at The Ritz and Row on 5, to the new establishment.
The menu features bistro staples including oysters, steak au poivre, roast chicken, and ratatouille, served with a high-quality baguette. The cooking, however, incorporates a modern sensibility. Dishes highlighted include raw red prawns on toast with Amalfi lemon, bluefin tuna in a tomato broth, Queenie scallops in garlic butter, and a seasoned steak tartare with pommes gaufrette. A Vesuvius tomato salad is complemented by peach slices and a subtle dressing.
A particular standout is the roast chicken for two, featuring crispy skin, juicy meat, morel mushrooms, and a vin jaune sauce, accompanied by French fries and a green salad. Prices are considered reasonable for the Mayfair area, with a two-course set menu available for £28.
Chez Rose is located at 5 Pollen Street, London W1, and its website is chezroselondon.com. The reviewer suggests an average cost of around £40 per head.