Invasive European green crabs, long a scourge on New England's coastal ecosystems and fisheries, are increasingly being targeted for consumption and product development as a means to control their population. These non-native crustaceans, which arrived from Europe hundreds of years ago, outcompete native species like the Atlantic rock crab and juvenile lobster, decimate eelgrass beds, erode salt marsh banks, and prey on valuable shellfish such as mussels, oysters, and soft-shell clams. The economic toll on the region's shellfish industry is estimated in the tens of millions of dollars annually.
The proliferation of green crabs is exacerbated by warming ocean waters, a consequence of climate change driven by the burning of fossil fuels. Their resilience allows them to survive New England winters and thrive in diverse habitats, while their omnivorous diet and high reproductive rate—a single female can produce up to 185,000 eggs one to two times a year—make them among the world's most successful invasive species. Their range has expanded globally, including to the West Coast, Alaska, South Africa, Japan, Argentina, and Australia.
Chad Coffin, a clam fisherman from Maine, attributes a significant decline in his catch to the rise of green crabs, noting that soft-shell clam landings have dropped from 7.8 million meat pounds in 1978 to 1.3 million pounds in 2023. In response, a grassroots effort has emerged across New England to develop new markets for the invasive crabs, aiming to mitigate their destructive impact.
This movement involves turning the green crabs into various products. Some entrepreneurs are developing pet treats, fish sauce, and even green crab whiskey. Mike Masi, founder of shell+claw, is focusing on cultivating soft-shell green crabs, which are more valuable in the market. He can sell a soft-shell crab for $3, compared to as little as $0.08 for a hard-shell one. Masi's company is the only one commercially cultivating these crabs, though he acknowledges that industrial-scale operations are still distant.
Despite growing interest, the infrastructure for processing and marketing green crabs remains limited. Marissa McMahan, vice president of fisheries at Manomet Conservation Sciences, highlighted that while fishermen in areas like Washington County, Maine, can catch abundant green crabs, the logistical challenge of transporting them to markets in cities like Boston, New York, or New Bedford poses a significant impediment.
Some legislative measures have been enacted to facilitate the trade. Rhode Island offers a $10 green crab fishing license, Connecticut has removed extra permitting requirements for selling crabs to restaurants, and Maine has streamlined market access. However, significant government incentives are scarce, with Massachusetts being an exception, offering fishermen 40 cents per pound, up to $100,000 annually, for catching green crabs.
In contrast, Washington state declared an emergency in 2022 and has allocated over $38 million in state and federal funds through fiscal year 2027 for eradication efforts. This initiative has resulted in the capture of nearly 2 million crabs, with much of the catch being converted into organic fertilizer or compost by Native American tribes. The state's concern stems from the risk to treaty-protected fisheries and critical habitats.
On the culinary front, there is a notable increase in consumer demand. Since 2021, the number of restaurants featuring green crabs on their menus has grown more than tenfold. Dishes include fried green crabs in sandwiches, atop pasta, and incorporated into sauces. Events like green crab weeks coincide with the roughly two-month soft-shell season. Tracy Chang, chef and owner of PAGU in Cambridge, Massachusetts, notes that green crabs offer a more intense flavor profile compared to other crab species, using them in dishes like green crab laksa and tempura-fried soft-shell bao.
Dr. William Li, a physician and author, experienced the culinary potential firsthand, describing a green crab bao as a "spectacular, filled with flavor, easy to eat, and very tasty" bite-sized treat. Masi, inspired by a centuries-old green crab fishery in Venice, Italy, continues to refine his labor-intensive process of identifying and harvesting molting crabs. While his business has grown and generates up to $20,000 annually, he views it as a developing venture with the potential for profitability with further innovation.
"We are one breakthrough from making this a profitable business," Masi stated, expressing cautious optimism about the future of green crab fisheries.