France has relaxed strict regulations for several protected food products, including some of its most famous cheeses, in response to a historic drought that has severely impacted grazing pastures. The National Institute for Origin and Quality (INAO), which oversees the country's labels of origin, has approved temporary deviations from established rules for produce such as Abondance and Comté cheeses, Calvados, cider, lamb, and plums.
These labels of origin are designed to protect the unique identity of products tied to specific regions and traditional production methods, often referred to by the French concept of "terroir." However, the ongoing drought, described by the INAO as "historic," has forced authorities to allow temporary adjustments. For instance, makers of Abondance cheese in the Alps are now permitted to reduce the required amount of pasture grass in their herds' diets from 50% to 15%. They can also import forage from outside their designated zone and use supplements. Similarly, Comté cheese producers in the Jura mountains may substitute local green maize for their cattle with maize sourced from elsewhere.
These derogations are permissible under French and European law during periods of exceptional weather. Similar measures were implemented following the dry summer of 2022. The current drought has led to widespread challenges across France, including wildfires and water shortages.
The temporary rule changes are expected to be in effect for a limited duration. The long-term implications of these adjustments raise questions about the future viability of traditional origin labels in the face of a changing climate, which may increasingly challenge the concept of "terroir" by making traditional production methods unsustainable in their historical locations.