Extreme heatwaves in Italy's Emilia-Romagna region are impacting the production of Parmigiano Reggiano cheese, a staple of the area's economy for centuries. Record high temperatures are diminishing milk quality and quantity, while also driving up energy costs for the cheese's critical aging process.
Farmers in the region, historically known as Italy's "heartland" for Parmigiano Reggiano, have had to adapt to the increasingly harsh summers. In decades past, barn windows were opened at night to cool cows. Today, those windows remain open around the clock, and additional measures like fans and water-mist systems are employed to protect the livestock. Nicola Bertinelli, president of the Parmigiano Reggiano Consortium and owner of a dairy farm founded in 1895, stated that extreme heat causes cows to eat less and lie down more, resulting in up to a 10% decrease in milk production. The cheese, made with only milk, salt, and rennet, relies entirely on local feed. "If it doesn't rain, grass doesn't grow, hay cannot be produced and it's impossible to obtain the milk needed to make the cheese," Bertinelli explained.
The rising temperatures also affect the storage and aging of the cheese. The Parmigiano Reggiano warehouses, collectively known as the "Bank of Parmigiano," store over 500,000 wheels, valued at more than $342 million. These facilities have seen a significant increase in energy consumption during peak heatwaves, with one operator reporting a 30% rise in daily energy use. Efforts are being made to improve energy efficiency through upgraded cooling systems, better insulation, and increased renewable energy production.
The industry, which generates an estimated $5.15 billion annually and employs thousands, is taking measures to safeguard its product. Each wheel undergoes rigorous quality inspections, including X-rays and weekly checks by experts who tap the wheels to detect internal flaws. However, the rising costs associated with heat mitigation are a growing concern. Paolo Ganzerli, international sales director at food group GranTerre, warned that prolonged and intense heat events will lead to higher costs and impact both the quantity and quality of milk.
The United States is the largest foreign market for Parmigiano Reggiano, which accounts for more than 50% of the cheese's global sales through exports. With a history spanning over 800 years, producers are anxious about preserving this culinary heritage for future generations. "We don't want to be the last generation to eat it," Ganzerli stated.