Workers Paid Less Than £1 an Hour in Official Football Shirt Factories

Workers in Cambodia are producing official football shirts for top clubs at a basic wage of less than £1 per hour, according to a BBC Sport investigation. The inquiry traced the supply chain of replica kits to two factories, Bowker Garment Factory and Trax Apparel, where conditions were described as "grim."

Employees at these facilities, located near Phnom Penh, reported struggling to make ends meet while working on hundreds of items daily. The investigation, which followed concerns raised by fans about rising shirt prices, obtained images from inside the factories showing kits for clubs including Arsenal, Celtic, Liverpool, and Real Madrid. Some workers reported experiencing factory temperatures exceeding 35C, facing verbal abuse for missed targets, and concerns about electrical equipment safety.

The Clean Clothes Campaign, a global workers' rights network, called the findings a "very grim picture," noting that such issues are common for garment workers worldwide.

Production on the Line

Fabric for the shirts is imported, and a specialist tailor creates a sample before factory employees begin mass production, which includes sewing, ironing, and packaging. Most of the approximately 3,400 workers at Bowker and 3,200 at Trax are women. Workers typically work six eight-hour shifts per week, with basic monthly salaries ranging from $210 to $220 (£158-£166). After including overtime and allowances, some earned around $300 (£226) monthly, which they stated was difficult to live on after essential expenses.

"Every one of these shirts contains the sweat of Cambodian workers," one Trax employee said. Trax Apparel reported average monthly earnings between $305 and $342 (£230-£258) for its employees this year. Adidas, which supplies eight Premier League teams, stated that its workplace standards are applied to its suppliers and that its factory audits aim to identify and rectify issues. The sportswear giant said average net wages at a sample of its Cambodian suppliers were 34% above the living-wage benchmark and that staff were typically paid significantly above the local minimum wage. Bowker Garment Factory did not respond to requests for comment.

Working Conditions and Costs

Workers described pressure to meet daily production targets, with some reporting receiving electric shocks from exposed wiring, which were only addressed after a second incident. Adidas stated that the factories have heat-management measures, that its standards prohibit harassment, and that no electrical-related accidents were found in Bowker's records. Trax acknowledged periods of high temperatures but said cooling systems were in place and denied enforcing output targets. A 2024 International Labour Organization report highlighted widespread issues in Cambodia's garment industry, including heat problems in 69% of factories and worker protection issues in 84%.

The investigation also touched upon the economics of football shirts. Research suggests that for a £85 shirt, the cost of fabric, sewing, and shipping accounts for only £8.50, while retailers take £37.45, manufacturers £16.25, marketing £9.50, and VAT £13.60. Prices have increased over the past decade due to technological advancements and lucrative club deals.

Fans expressed frustration with the rising cost of official shirts, with prices for adult replica kits increasing by over 50% in the last decade. One fan noted that buying three shirts for his children could cost around £300. The Premier League expects clubs to conduct due diligence on their kit manufacturers and supply chains. Clubs named in the article did not respond to requests for comment. Campaign groups emphasized the need for respect in sports, urging clubs to ensure workers are treated fairly.