Ruby Chocolate: The 'Fourth Type' With a Pink Hue and a Controversial Past

Ruby chocolate, characterized by its distinctive pink color and fruity flavor, emerged in 2017 as a purported fourth type of chocolate, joining dark, milk, and white varieties. Developed by the Swiss manufacturer Barry Callebaut, it was first revealed to the public in Shanghai in September 2017, with mass-market products appearing in early 2018. The company describes its taste as a "tango of berry fruitiness and luscious smoothness," a result of over a decade of research and development.

Despite its unique appearance and flavor profile, ruby chocolate has been met with skepticism and debate within the chocolate industry. Questions have arisen regarding whether it constitutes a genuine innovation or is primarily a marketing creation. Some experts argue that similar pink-hued chocolates have existed for years, questioning its status as a distinct fourth type. The flavor has been likened to white chocolate with added raspberry or strawberry notes, possessing an intense fruitiness and fresh sourness not found in traditional chocolates.

Barry Callebaut has been notably secretive about the proprietary methods used to produce ruby chocolate. The company states that the chocolate is made from "ruby cocoa beans" and that the pink color and flavor are naturally present within the bean itself, unlocked through a specific processing method without the addition of artificial colorings or flavorings. Chocolate makers suggest the process involves a careful selection of beans and a precise tempering technique. However, some industry professionals speculate that the process may involve treating unfermented cocoa beans with acid, a claim supported by a 2009 company patent.

Compositionally, ruby chocolate is said to contain 47.3% cocoa solids, placing it closer to milk and white chocolate in terms of cocoa content rather than dark chocolate. In terms of baking and tempering, chefs have found its behavior similar to that of white chocolate, requiring the same temperature manipulations to achieve a desired finish, including shine, strength, and snap.

The classification of ruby chocolate has also faced regulatory hurdles. As of September 2021, the U.S. Food and Drug Administration (FDA) had not definitively decided if it could be legally marketed as "chocolate," granting it a temporary permit. This contrasts with dark, milk, and white chocolate, which have established standards of identity set by the FDA.

Beyond the product itself, Barry Callebaut has faced scrutiny for its broader business practices. Past accusations from a 2017 NGO report linked the company to illegally grown cocoa associated with deforestation. Furthermore, in 2021, Callebaut was named in a class-action lawsuit alongside other major chocolate companies, alleging complicity in forced labor in Africa. Some industry observers believe the future of chocolate innovation lies with smaller, transparent "bean-to-bar" companies that prioritize the unique flavors and origins of cocoa beans rather than large-scale manufacturers.