New Brewery Bets on Hybrid Cafe Model Amid Craft Beer Industry Downturn

Southern California's craft beer industry is facing a wave of closures, but a new experimental brewery called Niteglow is attempting to buck the trend by offering a unique hybrid coffee shop and brewery experience. Located in a prime spot in Los Angeles' Chinatown, near the Metro station, Niteglow aims to be an all-day gathering place, serving specialty coffee alongside its craft beer offerings.

The brewery, founded by brothers Jonathan and Tohm Ifergan, who are also behind the boutique coffee chain Dayglow, features a minimalist, European-inspired interior. Unlike traditional, often dimly lit craft breweries, Niteglow boasts a sleek design with mint-green walls, white countertops, and cafe-style seating. Large glass doors open directly onto the street, blurring the line between indoor and outdoor space.

Niteglow's unique concept allows customers to enjoy a beer as early as 7 a.m. or an espresso late into the night. On Fridays and Saturdays, the establishment is open from 7 a.m. to midnight, and from Sunday through Thursday, it operates from 7 a.m. to 10 p.m.

Among its signature offerings are Czech-style "milkpours" (mlíko), served in small glasses and characterized by a dense, velvety foam created using specialized LUKR pull taps. The brothers liken this foam to the steamed milk found in a latte. While this serving style might be unfamiliar to some American drinkers, it is a nod to traditional Czech drinking customs.

"People see a full beer of foam, and they definitely are polarized," Tohm Ifergan acknowledged. "But once they try it, they definitely understand a lot better what we’re doing."

For those who prefer a more conventional pour, Niteglow also offers full-size pints and experiments with unconventional flavors such as guava and prickly pear. The brewery emphasizes regional ingredients and the distinct characteristics of its raw materials, drawing parallels to the specialty coffee world. "Less focus on ABV, more focus on flavor," Ifergen stated.

The roughly 2,000-square-foot space includes an on-site microbrewery and a 500-square-foot outdoor patio. The Ifergan brothers believe this hybrid model is particularly relevant at a time when younger consumers are increasingly moderating their alcohol intake.

Niteglow's Chinatown location is its second, following a successful opening in Brooklyn. The brothers chose the Spring Street location in Los Angeles for its proximity to public transportation, hoping to attract commuters and locals alike.

The opening occurs against a backdrop of challenges for the craft beer sector. In September, MacLeod Ale Brewing Co., a popular Van Nuys institution known for traditional British cask ales, announced its closure after 12 years in business.