Michelin-Starred Chef Faces Prison Over Ant Garnish
An Australian chef and his Seoul restaurant are accused of illegally importing and serving thousands of ants as a dessert topping.
A Michelin-starred celebrity chef is facing up to a year in prison and a significant fine after being accused of using ants as a garnish on desserts at his South Korean restaurant. Joseph Lidgerwood, an Australian chef who appeared on the Netflix series "Culinary Class Wars," is accused by prosecutors of importing and serving approximately 49,000 ants at his restaurant, Evett, located in Seoul's Gangnam district.
The ants were reportedly used as a topping for visually striking desserts, and photos shared on social media are said to have alerted authorities. Prosecutors are also seeking a 20 million won (approximately $14,300 USD) fine against the restaurant's parent company. The case is scheduled for sentencing on September 2.
Prosecutors allege that Lidgerwood and Evett violated South Korea's food safety laws. The country permits the consumption of only 10 approved insect species, such as grasshoppers and crickets. Businesses wishing to use unapproved insects, like ants, must obtain specific temporary approval, which prosecutors state Evett did not secure.
Evett's owner acknowledged the use of ants but stated they were incorporated into only a small portion of the restaurant's 15-course tasting menu. The owner also claimed that customers were informed and could opt for alternative toppings like fermented vinegar or edible flowers. The restaurant reportedly disputed prosecutors' claims regarding revenue generated from the ant-topped desserts, as well as the total number of ants served.
Health authorities also reportedly found that the ants used contained significantly higher levels of heavy metals than typical edible insects, with one finding indicating levels up to 55 times greater than normal. Prolonged exposure to heavy metals such as arsenic, lead, and mercury can pose health risks, particularly to vulnerable populations.
The restaurant's defense suggested Lidgerwood was unaware of the illegality, citing his prior experience using ant acidity in dishes in the U.S. and Europe. However, authorities maintain this does not excuse the violation of South Korean food regulations.
The Michelin Guide awards restaurants up to three stars based on various criteria, including ingredient quality, flavor, technique, and consistency. Evett held two stars, signifying that its cooking was considered "excellent" and "worthy of a detour."
In other culinary contexts, ants are consumed and often highly valued in various cultures. For instance, weaver ants and their eggs are used in Thai and Cambodian cuisine, and queen ants are a delicacy in Colombia. Renowned chefs like Rene Redzepi of Noma and Alex Atala of DOM have also featured ants in their fine dining creations, sometimes using live insects or raw preparations in experimental dishes.