Michelin-Starred Chef Faces Prison for Using Ants as Dessert Garnish in South Korea

Joseph Lidgerwood, an Australian chef with Michelin stars and an appearance on Netflix's "Culinary Class Wars," is facing up to a year in prison and a 20 million won (£10,100) fine. Prosecutors in Seoul, South Korea, accuse Lidgerwood and his restaurant, Evett, of importing and serving approximately 49,000 ants as a dessert garnish since 2021.

The use of ants, often sprinkled atop visually striking desserts and shared on social media, drew the attention of authorities. Evett, a two-Michelin-star establishment in Seoul's Gangnam district, reportedly used the insects as a topping.

Prosecutors contend that the restaurant violated South Korea's food laws, which permit only 10 specific insect species for consumption, such as grasshoppers and crickets. Businesses wishing to use unapproved insects require special temporary approval, which Evett did not obtain, according to the prosecution.

The restaurant's owner admitted to serving ants but stated they were used in a limited capacity on the 15-course menu, with options for diners to choose non-ant toppings like fermented vinegar and edible flowers. The owner claimed Lidgerwood was unaware of the illegality in Korea, citing his prior experience using ants in dishes in the US and Europe.

Further concerns were raised when health authorities discovered that the ants used at Evett contained up to 55 times more heavy metals than typical edible insects. While trace amounts of heavy metals like arsenic, lead, and mercury are not inherently dangerous, prolonged or large-dose exposure can pose health risks, particularly to vulnerable populations like children and pregnant women.

Evett also disputed the prosecution's financial claims, including an assertion that the restaurant generated 120 million won (£61,000) in revenue from the ant-topped dessert, stating that only about 60% of customers opted for the insect garnish.

Sentencing for the case is scheduled for September 2. The Michelin Guide awards stars based on factors including ingredient quality, flavor, technique, and consistency, with two stars signifying that a restaurant's cooking is 'excellent' and 'worthy of a detour.'

Ants are a traditional food source in various cultures across Asia, Africa, and Latin America. In Thailand and Cambodia, weaver ants and their eggs are utilized in cooking, while Colombian cuisine prizes queen ants as a delicacy. Internationally, chefs like Rene Redzepi of Noma and Alex Atala of DOM have featured ants in high-profile culinary creations.