John Lewis Aims for Premium Fashion Upgrade Under New Director

John Lewis is undergoing a strategic shift in its fashion department under the new directorship of Jacqui Markham, who joined the company two months ago. Markham, formerly of Whistles and a key figure during the successful periods at Asos and Topshop, is tasked with enhancing the retailer's own-label clothing to compete with rivals like Marks & Spencer.

While John Lewis is known for its curated selection of external brands, including a new collaboration with Rixo and a returning collection from Amanda Wakeley, its in-house fashion has not yet achieved the same level of recognition. Markham acknowledges that her current influence is limited to "tweaks" and fine-tuning the existing collections. She noted the success of Marks & Spencer, where former colleagues are now driving its womenswear strategy, but stated, "They are doing good things."

Markham's immediate priority is to elevate the overall polish of John Lewis's in-house offerings. "I want more polish across the board. Everything needs to feel feminine, flattering. I don't want sloppy and oversize," she explained. She indicated a move away from "boxy jumpers" and "swingy" silhouettes towards more structured and flattering designs.

An example of the new direction is a cashmere sweater with a funnel neck, priced at £169. While not inexpensive, it is positioned as being of comparable quality and shape to items costing twice as much from brands like Me+Em. For autumn, John Lewis will offer 69 cashmere styles, with prices starting from just over £60. Markham's personal preference leans towards tailoring, with a particular highlight being a bitter chocolate trench coat retailing at £329, a price point she defends as part of the strategy to "raise our credentials. Premium is our mantra."

This premium focus may be a concern for some long-standing John Lewis customers who associate the brand with its "never knowingly undersold" promise. However, Markham believes customers trust John Lewis for quality in all its product areas, including fashion, seeing it as an investment.

Early examples of the new direction include a herringbone tweed double-breasted blazer at £129 and a £99 cotton bomber jacket, though their proportions and seasonal appropriateness are still being refined. A men's-style striped shirt at £99 is also available, though it faces competition from other brands offering similar styles at lower price points.

The accessories collection, however, shows more immediate promise, featuring items such as soft square-toed leopard print pony skin pumps (£105), good quality boots, and a two-tone tote bag. Markham's full vision for John Lewis fashion is expected to be realized over the next year, with the potential for significant surprises and improvements.