John Lewis Aims for Premium Fashion Revival Under New Director
New fashion director Jacqui Markham outlines plans to elevate John Lewis's in-house clothing line with a focus on polish, femininity, and quality.
John Lewis is poised to enhance its own-label fashion offerings as new director Jacqui Markham focuses on elevating the brand's premium credentials. Markham, who previously held roles at Whistles, Asos, and Topshop, has been in her current position for two months and is implementing strategic 'tweaks' to refine the existing collections.
"I want more polish across the board. Everything needs to feel feminine, flattering. I don't want sloppy and oversize," Markham stated, indicating a shift away from looser, boxier silhouettes that characterized some previous offerings. She highlighted a new cashmere sweater with a funnel neck as an example of the desired aesthetic – offering quality and shape comparable to more expensive brands.
The strategy centers on raising the brand's fashion profile, with "premium" as the guiding mantra. This approach aims to attract a broader customer base, moving beyond staples like cardigans and waterproofs to become a destination for wardrobe-building pieces. The move comes as rival Marks & Spencer prepares to hold its first-ever catwalk show at London Fashion Week in September.
John Lewis is set to introduce collaborations, including a new partnership with British brand Rixo for the autumn season, and a return of Amanda Wakeley's collection. While the store's curated selection of external labels is strong, the focus is now on strengthening its own-label identity. Markham acknowledged the challenge of balancing the brand's traditional "never knowingly undersold" ethos with a premium positioning.
"Our customers trust us for the fridge, the television," Markham said. "They trust us to be the arbiters of quality and taste in all other areas when they're making an investment."
Autumn Collection Highlights
The autumn collection aims for increased polish, featuring pieces like a bitter chocolate trench coat priced at £329, which Markham identified as a personal favorite. Other notable items include a herringbone tweed double-breasted blazer at £129 and a £99 cotton bomber jacket. Accessories, such as leopard print pumps (£105) and new boot styles, are also being emphasized.
Markham indicated that her full vision for the John Lewis fashion offering will become more apparent next year. The current adjustments are seen as foundational steps toward a more distinct and desirable in-house fashion brand. This strategic repositioning seeks to find a balance between classic appeal and contemporary freshness, aiming to surprise and delight customers with improved style and quality.
