Chef Defends Kitchen Operations After Food Hygiene Scrutiny

Gareth Ward, the chef at Ynyshir, the sole two-Michelin-star restaurant in Wales, has defended his kitchen's operations after the venue faced criticism regarding its food hygiene standards. The restaurant received a one-star hygiene rating in February, with inspectors citing concerns over raw and undercooked foods.

In the Apple TV documentary series "Knife Edge: Chasing Michelin Stars," Ward stated that Ynyshir is "an incredible place" and insisted, "I run a spotless kitchen." He explained that the hygiene rating was a blow because the team is "only trying to be the best." Ward emphasized that all establishments, regardless of size or prestige, must adhere to the same rules, but his team strives to exceed them to ensure safety.

Ynyshir had previously been instructed to cease serving raw lobster after a council inspection identified "significant hazards" that were not adequately managed. The restaurant, which received its first Michelin star in 2014 and its second in 2022, narrowly missed out on a third star this year.

The 16-seat establishment, known for its Japanese-inspired raw dishes and a tasting menu costing nearly £500 per person, suggested that inspectors did not fully comprehend its specialized procedures. By August, however, Ceredigion council had reinstated the restaurant's five-star hygiene rating, confirming that the business had addressed all issues raised in the initial inspection.

Ward shared his frustration in the documentary, expressing pride in his team and business. He noted that media coverage of the hygiene rating led to immediate assumptions about cleanliness. "When something like this happens you're a bit blown away," he said.

He acknowledged that the restaurant serves many raw food items and undertakes practices that are "not normal." "We have done some things wrong, but we don't deserve everything [we were accused of]," Ward stated, attributing the situation to the restaurant's willingness to "dare to be different."

The inspection reportedly left Ward feeling the significant weight of responsibility, with over 30 staff members and the business's future at stake. Inspectors had categorized the management of food safety at Ynyshir as needing major improvement, along with the cleanliness and condition of facilities, while "hygienic food handling" was rated "generally satisfactory." The report also noted issues such as a dirty floor, inadequate hand-washing facilities in certain areas, and broken equipment that posed a potential contamination risk.

At the time of the initial inspection, Ynyshir responded by stating that the issues identified were "a small number of minor issues typical of a busy professional kitchen situated in the countryside of rural Wales" and that they had been "rectified immediately and in full." The restaurant also mentioned that biological testing had "conclusively confirmed that our techniques are safe, compliant and appropriate." They expressed a willingness to work constructively with the council, expecting "an informed, consistent and fair assessment process that recognises the realities of modern, non-conventional restaurants."